Sjuru and Ewer Village, West Papua, New Guinea
Juan and Jufri Villages, West Papua, New Guinea
The Asmat region, a 5 square mile area (14 sq. km) of lowland swamp and rain forest, has long sheltered the Asmat tribe from outsiders, and our visit is an expedition highlight. Zodiacs take us through this remote riverine, cruising along narrow waterways lined with the entwined branches of thick mangrove forests, home to dozens of species of parrots, lorikeets and other birds including the spectacular Bird of Paradise. As we make our way upstream, Asmat villagers—whooping and chanting in elaborate warrior gear and war paint—paddle vigorously toward us in dozens of intricately carved canoes; the Asmat have one of the most renowned and vibrant woodcarving traditions in the Pacific. We are escorted to the village of Agats, the capital of the Asmat region, where enthusiastic welcomes await. A walk along elevated wooden boardwalks leads to the Catholic cathedral with its superb carvings, and the museum, with elaborate displays of ancestor poles, drums, body masks, shields, daggers, and skulls, reminding us that headhunting and cannibalism was practiced here until the early 1970’s. We also visit Ewer, its 1,000 hospitable residents inviting us ceremoniously to a colorful active market, a men’s longhouse, and to view their homes and prolific gardens.
Asmat culture is noted for its remarkable ritual objects. The people believe that humanity began with Fumeripitsj the Creator, who carved human-like figures and brought them to life by beating on a drum. Villagers honor this belief by carving many of their everyday items—bowls, spears, paddles, ornate wooden sculptures, and shields. The artistic themes are based on an intriguing interpretation of life and death, and many of the carvings resemble relatives who are recently deceased. Asmat woodcarvings are known for their powerful lines and coarse, expressive motifs, and are widely considered to be among the worlds finest. With our anthropologist helping us to communicate, we have the opportunity to purchase carvings directly from village artisans.